Installation of a Hydro Instruments Ejector.
- Remove the diffuser from the ejector assembly and place two wraps of teflon tape on the diffuser threads.
- Do not install the diffuser into the line when assembled with the ejector.
- Turn the diffuser by hand into 3/4-inch NPT threads of the pipe line. Wrench tighten diffuser one half turn maximum.
- Reconnect the diffuser to the ejector, making sure that the black koroseal gaskets are on each side of the nozzle and the diffuser.
- Note: The chlorinator should still be in the shipping case.
- Hook up the ejector piping. Please note that the ejector should be installed downstream a sufficient distance so that chlorinated water is not recirculated through the booster pump. On the water inlet side to the ejector nozzle it is recommended that a water inlet valve, Y-strainer, and pressure gauge be installed as illustrated.
- At this point it is necessary to check that the ejector is creating a sufficient vacuum to operate the chlorinator. With water flowing through the ejector you should feel suction when placing a finger over the fitting on the ejector.
Please note the following:
- A minimum of approximately 40 pounds of differential pressure is required between the inlet water supply and the ejector outlet.
- The ejector must have some back pressure or jetting will occur.
- When chlorinating into a contact chamber a tee should be installed on the solution line with a vacuum breaker to prevent syphoning.
- If the ejector has tested satisfactory you may proceed.
Installation of a Hydro Instruments Chlorinator.
Attaching the chlorinator to the tank:
- The chlorine cylinder valve is OFF. Do not turn on until instructed to do so.
- See that the safety chain is secured around the chlorine cylinder.
- Remove the cylinder protection cap from the chlorine cylinder.
- Examine the chlorinator for obvious damage.
- Place a lead gasket over the chlorinator inlet assembly.
- While placing the lead gasket on the chlorinator check that the filter and filter material have not fallen out of the inlet assembly. While doing so, remove the masking tape which is used for shipping purposes only. The filter is necessary to remove dirt that may precipitate out of chlorine. Behind the filter material is a teflon disc used as a screen. Periodically it may be necessary to replace the filter material. The teflon filter behind it must be in place, otherwise the filter material may pass through the chlorinator and restrict flow through the rate valve.
- Mount the chlorinator on the cylinder valve being sure that the yoke screw is backed out far enough for sufficient clearance. While tightening the yoke screw be certain that the lead gasket has not fallen off. Excessive tightening can damage the gasket or the yoke screw.
Connecting the vacuum line between the chlorinator and the ejector and connecting the "Vent to Outside Line":
- The upper connector on the right top of the chlorinator is used to connect the vacuum line tubing to the ejector. Always allow enough vacuum tubing for changing cylinders.
- Connect the vent tubing to the lower connector on the chlorinator and vent the line to a safe area outside of the building. Be sure to place the bug screen on the end of the vent tubing.
- NOTE: Do not connect vent lines from two chlorinators to one common vent. You must run separate vent lines to the outside when using two chlorinators.
Chlorinator vacuum test:
- Do not turn on the chlorine cylinder valve until you have completed a vacuum test on the system.
- With the chlorine cylinder still closed, start the ejector booster pump (or otherwise allow the flow of water to the ejector). Within approximately one minute the meter ball will drop to the bottom of the glass meter tube. If the ball continues to bounce there is either a leak at the (lead) gasket or a loose connection at the vacuum tube fittings or at the meter tube. The tube fittings should be hand tight. It is not necessary to use pliers or a wrench on these fittings. If the meter tube needs tightening, use a quarter and finger tighten. At this time the rate valve on the chlorinator should be open two or three turns.
If the ejector is operating properly and pulling sufficient vacuum, the "Red Indicates Loss of Chlorine" indicator on the front of the chlorinator should show red.
- Turn off the water supply to the ejector.
- Wait 5 to 10 minutes with the water supply off. Turn the reset knob on front of the chlorinator. The "Red Indicates Loss of Chlorine" indicator should continue to show red. If this is the case, the system is vacuum tight and you can proceed with the installation.
- Disconnect the vacuum tubing at top of chlorinator to allow air to enter system. Reconnect the tubing.
- Turn the reset knob on the front of the chlorinator. The "Red Indicates Loss of Chlorine" indicator should now be gray.
Start up of the Chlorination System:
Materials necessary: The small plastic squeeze bottle provided, 1/3 full of household ammonia (used to check for leaks). Ammonia and chlorine react to create a white vapor which looks like smoke.
- Open the chlorine cylinder valve 1/4 turn and close immediately.
- Squeeze the ammonia bottle at the lead gasket and around the rate valve bonnet. If no white vapor appears you can proceed.
- Open the chlorine cylinder valve. The valve should be opened only about 1/4 turn to make it easier to turn off the gas in the event of a gas leak. With the valve open, recheck the system for leaks. Leave the wrench on the open cylinder valve to visually show that the valve is open and to allow for quick shut-off, if necessary.
- Turn on the water supply or booster pump to the ejector and set the rate valve to the desired flow rate. Read the flow rate at the center of the ball on the meter scale.
- Please note that the rate valve is not a shut off valve; it is a flow rate control only. To shut off the flow of chlorine, close the chlorine cylinder valve.